Saturday, March 7, 2015

More Palmers

I've been tying some more Palmer style flies today.  In the picture below you can see some of the larger black palmers with the red bucktail tail, some black palmer red tag wets, some brown palmer red tag wets and a bomber style dry fly.

A handful of wet and dry Palmers

I've had the idea of tying a black bomber swimming around for a while in my head.  When I started reading about the palmer style wet flies things started to come together.  I really like the heavily hackled bomber for fishing small, tumbly water and the white calf tail wing really helps keep track of the fly.  Combining these elements with a red bucktail tail and a peacock herl body resulted in a palmer style dry fly reminiscent of Fran Better's Ausable bomber.  I've a few for trying out in both brown and black hackle. (brown shown below).


Materal's list
TMC 100 #14 dry fly hook
black 8/0 Uni thread
stacked red bucktail for the tail
3 strands of peacock herl reinforced with thread for the body
White calf tail wing
brown or black saddle hackle palmered from rear to front

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

The Black Zulu

I've been intrigued with the name and history of the Adirondack pond fly I showed in the previous post.  I figured was probably and adaption of a similar classic wet fly so I turned to the plates of Ray Bergman's Trout and found a fly that looked very similar on plate #2 called the black palmer red tag.  The materials listed for this fly were a red wool tag, peacock herl body and black hackle palmered over the fly.  Here is my interpretation of the black palmer tied on a mustad S70-3399 #10.  You can see the similarity to the Adirondack fly which uses a longer streamer hook and a sparse red bucktail tail to create the illusion of a blood trail behind the leech.


The Black Palmer has an older relative from Scotland in the Black Zulu.  The Zulu is a classic loch fly which I found interesting in that the Adirondack variation is also used for still water fishing.  Below I've tied the Zulu on the mustad S70-3399 #10 with softer hen hackle  to give more movement to the hackle when fishing still waters as is typically the custom.



Sunday, March 1, 2015

Adirondack Pond fly

A couple months ago, I had the pleasure of talking with Jim Abbott who is Adirondack guide.  Jim has a lot of experience fishing the Adirondack ponds for brook trout.  He brought along some pictures of some very impressive brook trout.  Hopefully we will have the chance to fish together.  This type of fishing requires a light weight, pack-able canoe and a level sinking line for trolling the flies.  The flies are lightly bounced off the bottom.  He showed me one of these flies which I took home and studied how to construct.  It appears to be a leech imitation with the red buck tail and a thick peacock herl body. I tried to find a name for this fly but could not.  If anyone is familiar with this fly and it's name please chime in on the comments section.

From handling the fly I could tell it is not weighted so I needed to solve how to build up the bulk of the body.  The solution I came up with was to use the buck tail tips to build up a tapered under body.

Underbody built up with the tips of the bucktail
Once the under body is built up, gold wire is added to rib the fly and 6 strands of peacock herl are tied in. A little trick I learned for reinforcing peacock herl bodies is the take thread and wrap it once around the herl strands counter clockwise.  Then wrap the herl clockwise around the shank of the hook.  This has the effect of twisting the thread and the herl together to give a more robust herl body. After the body is formed a black saddle is tied in at the head and palmered to the rear of the fly and then tied down with the wire which is wrapped over the hackle from rear to the hook eye to lock the hackle down.

The finished fly
I am going to tie a down sized version of this fly for small streams.  When things thaw out I will let you know how it works out.  Here are the materials I used in this fly:

Mustad R75-79580 size 8
Uni 6/0 black thread
small gold UTC ultrawire rib
dyed red buck tail
peacock herl (5-7 strands)
black saddle hackle

Monday, February 23, 2015

February in the Adirondacks

The streams are all iced over and under several feet of snow but that doesn't mean that we don't get out to enjoy the beauty of the mountains in winter.  Here are some pictures from a recent outing into the Adirondack back-country after some fresh snow.

The sun beginning to break through

A frozen Adirondack bog

Massive Adirondack White Pine

The frozen Jessup River

A river side hemlock


Sun and clouds over Mason Lake

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Euro nymphing IV. Some favorite dropper flies

Downy Woodpeaker at the feeder
It's another snowy windy day here in New England.  I think it's going to be a while before the streams are clear enough to fish this winter.  The birds are enjoying the feeder despite the winds.

In this final post on European nymphing I will show you some of my favorite flies to fish as a dropper above the anchor fly.  I usually tie a triple surgeons knot in the tippet and hang the dropper off the tag end with the anchor about 18" below it.  With the dropper you can use a wide variety of flies from weighted nymphs to wet flies.  I usually try to "match" the hatch and will often use a soft hackle fly as the dropper.  Sometimes the anchor and the dropper will be flies from two different centuries!

Most often I will fish a soft hackle version of a bead head pheasant tail.  My Scottish friends refer to it as an Endrick's spider with a tungsten bead for some weight.  You really can't go wrong with fishing this fly as a dropper and I will fish it from early in the season through the sulfur hatch (hint, hint).  I will also fish a black version of this fly when the early stoneflies are making an appearance.  I will use a black gunmetal bead, black pheasant tail, some peacock ice dub for the thorax and dark India hen back for the hackle.  I find the best size is about a size 16 for both the natural and black versions.

Bead head phesant tail soft hackle (Endrick's spider)
TMC 3761 hook (#16)
Copper tungsten bead
UTC 70DN brown thread
4 pheasant tail fibers (tail and body)
small copper wire (rib)
peacock herl (thorax)
Partridge hackle

Another great fly when the sulfur hatch is on is a brown version of Rich Strolis' super simple.

Super Simple (brown)
TMC 3761 or European hook ( #16-#18)
UTC 140DN Fire orange thread
Coq de Leon fibers (tail)
Brown Squirrel SLF
small copper wire rib

By late summer/early fall and smaller flies are coming into the picture I usually fish a smaller dropper. Rich Strolis' DDT in brown and olive is another favorite when the small olives are predominating.  Over on the right is a link to a video of Rich tying this fly.  This fly will take a lot of fish in late summer and fall.

Strolis DDT
TMC 2487 hook (#18; #20)
fire orange UTC 70 DN thread
copper tungsten bead
brown/olive Zelon fibers (tail)
tan or olive superfine dubbing
Zelon fibers with one piece of midge krystal flash pulled over (wing case)
Zelon and midge flash split and splayed (wings)

These are some of my favorite droppers for the Euro rig but as I mentioned you can use any number of weighted nymphs or wet flies as the dropper.  So go ahead and experiment and have some fun out there!


Sunday, February 8, 2015

Euro Nymphing - III. Anchor flies

Here are my top two anchor flies, hands down!  The super simple and Egan's frenchie are simple and quick to tie so I don't mind losing them, which you will if your flies are where they should be.  If I had to fish two anchors all season and nothing else, it wouldn't take long to decide.

The Super Simple is another Rich Strolis pattern.  From spring to late summer this is fly catches fish. This fly looks a lot like the standard hare's ear nymph but with an hot orange hot spot and more flash. You can fish this fly in sizes 16 to 10, but my favorite is a size 12.  You can use a European competition hook but a TMC 3761 works well too.  After weighting the hook with 0.030 non-lead wire and snugging it up against the bead, use the heavy thread to build a nice tapered body.  Tie in the tail fibers and put one wrap of thread behind the tail fibers to splay them out.  Tie in the wire, split the thread and dub the split thread.  Re-spin the thread and dubbing to form a loose, rough body.  Wrap the wire forward, tie off and build up the orange hot-spot behind the bead and whip finish.

Strolis Super simple #12
#12 TMC 3761 with 3.5mm tungsten bead
half a dozen wraps of 0.030 non-lead wire
UTC 140 hot orange thread
Coq de Leon tail fibers 
medium copper wire 
gray Haretron dubbing

While the Super Simple shines from spring to late summer, the Frenchie comes into it's own when the cold winds of fall start to blow. This fly is a quick tie and I usually have half a dozen on hand.  I remember one stormy October day on the Housatonic river where the browns where all over the Frenchie while all but ignoring the various droppers I was using.  This is another fly I fish in large sizes (#10).  This fly is weighted with non-lead wrap as illustrated in the previous post for the Rock Candy.

Egan's frenchie
#10 TMC 2487
4.5mm Copper tungsten bead
UTC 140 brown thread; UTC 70 hot pink thread (hot spot)
6 brown pheasant tail fibers (tail and body)
small copper wire rib
Hot pink UV ice dub (hot spot)

Monday, February 2, 2015

Euro nymphing - Part II. Anchor flies

a snowy day here in New England but the junco's have found some shelter

Today's topic is the foundation of the Euro rig that I fish, the anchor fly.  The anchor fly is the heavily weighted fly that gets the whole rig down in a hurry.  There are two ways I weight these flies and some variations you can do with them depending on shape of the body of the fly you are building.  I use either non-lead wire or non-lead wrap.

The golden stone fly nymph I like to use is Rich Strolis' shimmerstone.  Rich has a nice video on his website and vimeo channel.  Since this is a more involved fly to tie I would recommend watching the video.  For this fly I use 0.030 wire and then shape the wire flat with some flat-nosed pliers.  This gives the fly a flat, wide profile reminiscent of a stone fly nymph body.  Once the wire is shaped, 140 DN thread is used to build up the base of the fly.

Once the wire is covered with thread and you have a nice base you can proceed with tying the rest of the fly.  I use Waspi Span flex for the antennae and the tails and golden stone v-rib to build up the body and a small slip of brown flashy back over the top provides the shimmering brownish back of the fly.

The thorax is build up with golden stone haretron dubbing which is dubbed with a split thread technique which another reason why the 140DN is helpful on this fly.  Following a couple wraps of dubbed
thread, hen back is used for the legs and the flashy back is pulled over and tied in.  This process is repeated 3 times to finish off the fly.




Materials list for the Strolis Shimmerstone
TMC 2302 #8 hook
UTC 140DN yellow thread
4.5mm tungsten bead (gold or copper)
Waspi Spanflex - gold
V-rib in golden stone
Brown Flashy back
Haretron Golden stone fly dubbing
India hen back - natural

Another way to weight the anchor fly is used in tying the Strolis Rock Candy.  Here wire wrap is used to give a more tapered and streamlined body.

Non- lead wrap underbody

Strolis Rock Candy Materials list :
TMC 2487 _#10 hook
3.8mm black tungsten bead 
UTC 140DN Chartreuse thread
Sybia green body glass (from performance flies)
black SLF squirrel dubbing color (split thread technique)
Chartreuse thread hot spot

Next up I will show you two other anchor nymphs I've been using this past season.